MAY 2025 · ROAM
Our lady of Capel-Y-Ffin
Vale of Ewyas, Monmouthshire / Powys
The second visit is the honest one. First time, you're getting your bearings. You shoot what's in front of you, and you leave wondering what you missed. The second time you know what you came for.

Capel-y-Ffin sits at the end of the Vale of Ewyas, where the road runs out of room and the Black Mountains close in on both sides. The chapel is tiny — whitewashed stone, a small bell tower, a handful of graves with weathered inscriptions tilted at angles. It's eighteenth century, built to serve a community that had very little to do with the nearest town. The valley hills are the backdrop whether you want them or not.
I'd photographed the exterior before. This time I went deeper into what the building holds. The arched doorway leads into a space that feels preserved by accident rather than intention — the kind of quiet that comes from no heating, low footfall, and the indifference of altitude.
The kind of quiet that comes from no heating, low footfall, and a road that stops here.
Capel-y-Ffin church — May 2025

On the whitewashed interior wall: a Byzantine icon. Our Lady and child surrounded by worshippers in robes, the colour deep and warm against the plain plaster. It shouldn't be there in any logical sense — the aesthetic is wrong for an eighteenth-century Welsh chapel. But there it is, and it's been there long enough to look inevitable.
I haven't finished with this place. The light changes in the valley, the access road floods, the season shifts what the graves look like against the hills. I'll go back again in winter and see what's left when the hedges have come down.
