MAY 2023 · ESCAPE
Hoi-an, Vietnam
Hoi An Ancient Town, Vietnam
The temperature was 44°C. Everything you do in that heat is reduced to its minimum: where to be, how long to stand in the sun, where the shade falls. The ancient town accommodates this instinctively — narrow lanes, yellow merchant house facades close together, the lanterns overhead providing interval shade.

The red silk lanterns are everywhere. Hanging above alleys, strung between yellow walls, stacked outside shops in every colour for sale, hanging from doorways in red, purple, multicolour. A vendor selling them occupies a corner, the display six feet high. This has been the town's visual identity long enough that the image is inseparable from the place.
The heritage and the working market are the same place, the same streets, the same lanes.
Hoi An Ancient Town — May 2023

But the commercial activity runs through everything. Fishing boats moored at the dock, fishermen in orange life vests. A woman on a motorbike passing a yellow building with bougainvillea trailing the wall. A produce vendor under a parasol, selling leafy greens from her bike in bright sunlight. A water vendor moving through on a motorbike, passing a storefront with blue glass jars. At a market square, colourful umbrellas, scooters, the scale of yellow colonial buildings around it.


The Thu Bon riverside at golden hour: the yellow buildings reflected in the water, traditional boats along the bank. A school courtyard with yellow stone buildings and children gathered under shelter. A street intersection with magenta bougainvillea overhead and red lanterns below.

At a market stall: wooden carved spirit masks, long straw hair, traditional character faces stacked in rows. At another: wooden religious figures on shelves. The ornate Chinese-style temple entrance with a dragon sculpture. The heritage and the working market are the same place, the same streets, the same lanes.
A three-wheeled taxi with passengers outside a yellow colonial building. The vendor on a bicycle with cargo, parked under a storefront. The lanterns overhead in the heat.























