JANUARY 2023 · ADVENTURE
Right to Roam: Raising Old Crockern to Defend Dartmoor
Southern Dartmoor, England
Three thousand people came to Cornwood on 21 January 2023. The occasion was the Right to Roam rally — a response to a legal judgment by landowner Alexander Darwall that had removed the automatic right to wild camp on Dartmoor, the only place in England and Wales where such a right had existed. The rally was called Raise the Crockern, after the spirit of Dartmoor in local mythology: Old Crockern, grey, ancient, said to gallop across the moor on dark nights.

The march assembled in the lanes around the village — hedge-lined, narrow, the kind of Devon lanes where two people can barely pass. Signs: "No Darn Walls Here," screen-printed on boards. "Hedges Not Hedgefunds," handwritten on card. "Our Space Are For Everyone," on a wooden roadside sign. A woman with an illustrated map of Dartmoor on her placard, the detail visible from close up.
The scale became visible at golden hour on the moorland: thousands spread across the open ground, colourful coats and banners, the stone village buildings silhouetted behind them.
Cornwood — January 2023

People moved through the hedge-lined pathways and across the open moorland, gathering mass as they went. The scale became visible at golden hour on the moorland: thousands spread across the open ground, colourful coats and banners, the stone village buildings silhouetted behind them. Dense crowd in front of the stone church in the village square. Orange banners. Colourful hats.


The effigy of Old Crockern was ornate — straw construction, dressed in green fabric, decorated. Someone adjusting the cloth strips on it at sunset, methodical. The effigy surrounded by the gathered crowd, then paraded. Musicians and costumed performers at the rally end, a guitar player, masked figures, dusk light going amber behind them.

The Dartmoor right to wild camp was restored by Parliament later that year.





























