Cours Julien, Marseille. The bohemian quarter south of the centre — France's largest street art district, walls covered in murals, independent record shops and bars spilling onto the terraces. I was interested in the layers — walls, stairs, shutters, storefronts all marked and painted over — and a 'TOURIST GO HOME' tag sitting among the bright murals. The density is the neighbourhood's voice, not just scenery for outsiders.