Two days on Cadair Idris — spring oak and birch at the valley floor, stone steps climbing through fern and moss, then open mountain bowl and scree above. Other campers had tents at Llyn y Gadair, the sheer cwm walls reflected perfectly in still water. Up to the 893m summit at Penygadair the next morning: lichen-patched boulders, a ruined stone shelter, and the ridge dropping away into haze.