FEBRUARY 2025 · ADVENTURE
Iceland — On the Ice
Breiðamerkurjökull, Vatnajökull National Park
The crampons go on at the glacier's edge. You clip the front points over your boot toe and tighten the heel bail, and then you step onto the ice and the traction is immediate — the points bite and hold. Everything changes. You stop sliding. You are committed.

Breiðamerkurjökull is an outlet glacier from Vatnajökull, 500 square kilometres of ice draining southeast toward Jökulsárlón. In February it is pale turquoise on the surface and a saturated, almost artificial teal in the crevasse walls. The colour comes from meltwater — the ice compressed by its own weight until it is denser than the air trapped inside it, and denser ice transmits light differently. The volcanic ash stripes running horizontally through the walls are records of eruptions beneath the ice cap, deposited and compressed into the glacier's history.
You stop sliding. You are committed.
Breiðamerkurjökull — February 2025

The crevasses open from above as slots a metre across, then widen as you descend. Some are fifteen, twenty metres deep. Meltwater has carved channels through the walls, left frozen cascades, created overhanging lips. You descend with a rope and a guide and your crampons find the steps cut in the ice, and at the bottom you look up and the sky is a thin pale stripe above turquoise walls.

The group appears in several frames: four helmets in a line, figures small against a wall, a person in red standing in a luminous crevasse interior. They provide scale. Without them, the formations read as abstract geology. With them, you understand what you are actually looking at.


An overhead shot of crampons and boots on pale ice, black volcanic ash streaks running beneath the metal points. The equipment as evidence. We were here; the ice recorded nothing.


Crevasse splits bright turquoise ice with narrow waterfall-like formations in Breiðamerkurjökull glacier

Group of hikers in colorful gear standing at edge of bright turquoise glacial crevasse under grey sky

























