DECEMBER 2022 · ADVENTURE
Pen-y-Fan: Summit Camp
Central Beacons, Wales
Pen y Fan gets all the attention. It's the highest point in the Beacons, it's on the list, it's where people go. On a winter weekend it looks like a queue outside a shop.

At night in December it's different. This was primarily a test — new sleep system, rated for low temperatures, and the question of whether I'd stay warm enough to get the morning light. The answer was yes, but just. Bedtime temperature was minus eight. The tent fabric stiffened. The full moon made the summit plateau nearly as bright as twilight all night, which meant people kept arriving. Runners, hikers, a rescue helicopter working the area at some point in the small hours. The summit at 886 metres is never truly empty, even in winter dark.
The tent fabric stiffened. The full moon made the summit nearly as bright as twilight all night.
Pen y Fan — December 2022


Snow on the approach, deep in the gullies on the north face. Rime ice coating the vegetation and stones on the plateau. The tent pitched on the exposed ground with hoarfrost building on the outer, and the sunset behind the ridge going purple and blue and then dark. A view from inside the tent with boots visible in the foreground and the sunset landscape beyond.

Dawn was the reward. The sun reaches Pen y Fan before it reaches the valleys below. The cairn marker went from frost-grey to white to gold in the space of minutes. The bowl valleys filled with mist and the ridge fence posts were coated in hoar frost — each post, each wire, precise and white. The mist in the valleys below caught the light from underneath. A runner appeared on the snowy slopes, silhouetted and descending fast.

Summit cairn frosted with ice in golden light. Ridge fence posts white and exact against the clear morning sky.
























